New Orleans by Rita Cook

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When I think of New Orleans my mind automatically hears the many sounds of the blues and jazz musicians of bygone era's. The music of New Orleans echoes and rolls as if I am actually standing there on Bourbon Street amid a crowd of Mardi Gras onlookers and hot dog vendors. But that's not all New Orleans has to offer. Admittedly, many tourists won't search the more eerie nooks and crannies of the city, but for the curious adventurer read on and find out the deeper mystery of the Big Easy.

Stand on any bank of the Mississippi River in New Orleans and you'll immediately find yourself lost in a spell. You'll feel as if you have been transformed back 300 years, back when New Orleans was a sprawling town just verging on the dawn of civilization.

But wait, I've lost myself again. Every time I go down south I can't help but think that I have stepped into another era, it seems New Orleans will never grow old. Or, in this case, it will never grow new, at least not in the French Quarter or the sprawling plantations that still remain so much a part of the city.

The way to really know a city is to become a part of it, to get lost in it and to leave a part of yourself behind. In New Orleans you want to leave a part of yourself behind, if for nothing else than to have an excuse to visit there again.

As I walked through Painter's Alley one breezy afternoon in the Spring looking for some entertainment I chose to have one of the local chalk painters who was set up in the square draw a portrait of me. Interesting I thought, as I remembered seeing a picture my mother had hanging in my childhood home, a picture she had had done while in New Orleans years ago, when she was about the age I am now. As people walked by they looked at me and then looked at the portrait (which I couldn't see) and nodded in appreciation. In the end the picture turned out to be quite good.

There are also other kinds of amusements in New Orleans. Shall we say, psychic amusements. After all, the city is deeply rooted in Catholicism and voodoo. But don't despair, a voodoo queen will not place a horrible hex on you the moment you step foot in the city, but there is obvious proof of how deeply-rooted the voodoo tradition is in New Orleans. Take for instance the Voodoo Museum located at 724 Dumaine. For a small fee you can tour this museum and in the back room you can even see two large Pythons that are used in modern day voodoo ceremonies.

The museum also offers a cemetery tour to the St. Louis Cemetery #1. And, let me add, the cemetery is not noted to be in the best part of the city so it might be a good idea to take the walking tour with a group. When I arrived at the cemetery the guide began to tell us all about the many graves (many of which had been robbed) and the ways to determine if a person had been a part of the voodoo religion. And, in New Orleans the graves are built above ground due to the sea level, so I found it very interesting to be able to look right into the tomb.

During your cemetery tour you will invariably visit the tomb of Voodoo Queen Marie Laveau and maybe even see an actual voodoo ceremony while you're there. So keep your eyes and ears open.

Marie Laveau was said to have been one of the most famous names in New Orleans, relating to Voodoo lore in the 1800s. She had a daughter of the same name and, between the two of them, it was rumored that, while they lived in a cottage on St. Ann Street, they had the police and politicians in their power because of a remarkable ability to "voodoo" anyone they didn't like. Tales were told of 20-foot pythons, mummified babies and skeletons all being in her house on St. Ann and, after her death, she was buried in the St. Louis Cemetery #1. Even today you will always find the tomb adorned with burnt candles, flowers and voodoo offerings.

Down the street from the Voodoo Museum is a place called The Bottom of the Cup Tea Room. This place is known nationally for the fabulous tea leaf readings they give right there in the French Quarter (reservations are required). The woman who read my tea leaves came strangely close to facts about me she could have not known. Oh well, be a skeptic. But do visit the tea room and you may change your mind.

As my trip seemed to be progressing into a sort of paranormal experience it shouldn't come as a surprise that I stayed at The Myrtles, a renowned haunted house listed by the United States government as one of only ten authentic haunted houses in the country.

I was served a glorious breakfast the following morning in a breakfast room from another century, but no past century visitors were noticeable in the room.

A tour of the Myrtles explains its strange and haunted reputation. It is reported that at least ten people have died violent deaths at the Myrtles, the house being named after the lovely pink flower, in 1796. The first death was a murder and it was due to the owner of the Myrtles who had an affair with his slave named Chloe who was living on the plantation at the time. After the owner of the plantation tired of Chloe he discarded her but she would not be discarded. She eventually poisoned his wife and two daughters and in retaliation for this the other slaves drug her to the banks of the Mississippi River and hung her from a tree. When she was dead they tossed her limpid body into the water.

Chloe is said to haunt the house along with the two young daughters she poisoned. There are also other ghosts such as the French governess and the Confederate soldier who takes up residence in the Green Room in May and June of each year. There is an old slave graveyard behind the house which is surely the home of some discarnate spirits still living there. The Myrtles is located outside of New Orleans, but is definitely worth the trip.

Back in the French Quarter again I decided to do one of those gushy things that a tourist always hesitates doing, the famous horse and carriage ride. And I enjoyed it. The ride takes you down some historic streets that might not otherwise be seen. For example, our horse trotted down one street where a crowd of people seemed to be gathering. On closer observation I saw it was because of two very tall, made-up transvestites flirting as they made their way down a side street to the applause of a group of men.

Of course no trip to New Orleans would be complete without mentioning the mouth-watering Cajun and Creole fare offered just about everywhere in the city. Take for example Jimbalaya, Gumbo, Red Beans and Rice, Andouille and for dessert a Beignet with Cafe Brulot, you can find the real thing here so don't hesitate to take advantage of every eating opportunity while in New Orleans.

And no trip would be complete without a tour of the Garden District. This section of town is lavish and was built in the 1800's. It's where Anne Rice is from and on one of the tours you can see the outside of her house. Other notables are mentioned in the Garden District too, there is the house where Thomas Jefferson died in 1889.

New Orleans will welcome you with open arms and give you so much to do you may not leave for weeks. Don't forget to put your party mask on because it really is always a Mardi Gras celebration in that town.

Aquarium of the Americas (504)581-4629
This is one of the top five aquariums in the United States. They always have new exhibits and are changing the 3D shows, in addition to their regular fare.

Kliebert Alligator & Turtle Farm (504)345-3617
An alligator farm worth seeing.

Natchez Steamboat (504)586-8777
An authentic steamwheel steamboat with two hour cruises departing throughout the day. Food is served and some entertainment while cruising the Mississippi River.

Plantation Tours (504)592-0560
New Orleans Tours offers two plantation tours. One is the Half Day tour visiting a plantation built in 1856 and the other is the Full Day tour visiting two plantations that are both over 250 years old.

Riverfront Shopping
The French Market winds along the Vieux Carre Riverfront and was formerly the Jackson Brewery until 1984 when the renovations opened up an entire new era of shopping here. There is also Canal Place and the New Orleans Riverwalk.

Haunted History Tour (504)897-2030
This tour explores the old French Quarter and ghosts and vampires are said to still haunt the Vieux Carre. They say this tour is like no other.

Vampire Tour (504)897-2030
Speaks for itself, you be the judge.

The Five Star Garden District Walking Tour (504)897-2030